Monday, March 17, 2008

Final Stages

I have learned that this kit depicts Yamato as she appeared in October 1944 during the "Sho" operation, and proceeded to complete the model in this configuration.

Once I got to the point where the end was in sight, I couldn't wait to finish this model (unfortunately to the detriment of this blog). It was fun at first but this kit wore me out. As stated previously, a lot of parts didn't even come close to fitting, incompatibility of the revised photo etch kit and the original release of the model, and the fact that 1/700 is just to small for me to enjoy, all combined to make this one of the least enjoyable models I have built.

After having constructed all sub-assemblies like the super structure, turrets, float planes etc, it was just a matter of fitting them to the hull and tidying up the loose ends. For the rigging, I used plain black cotton. I have tried fishing line and all sorts of crazy recommendations, but found cotton the easiest to work with. CA glue seems to soak in to the fibres leaving a clean small and quick drying joint. To finish off I masked off the ship (to protect the glossy water) and gave it a thorough coating of Testors Dullcoat. It never ceases to amaze me how many modelling fudgies can be covered up with this stuff. It hides all of the shine from CA glue, and just makes everything look right. I have tried other flat coats, but the Testors product really is the best in my opinion.

Here are some pics of the completed model.










In conclusion, I can see why Tamiya upgraded/revised this kit. I am sure the revised release is a much better build. The Gold Medal Models Photo Etch Kit is very detailed, but not for the faint of heart. If your like me, with fat fingers and unsteady hands I would recommend you forget about items like the 25mm guns, float plane props, wind vanes, crane hooks and some of the turret railing, it's just too small to even see let alone bend and glue into place. Omani's method of base construction worked perfectly for me, and will no doubt encourage me to build more waterline ships. Its very easy and gives a great result, and in the end, I guess that's what we all look for!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

The Devil is in the Super-details

Since my last post I have discovered quit a few things about the first release 1/700 Tamiya Yamato Kit. A lot of the parts simply don't fit together (Most noteabley, the super-structure). I expect this was one primary reason why the kit was revised. I have also learned that trying to use the 'Revised Photo Etch Kit' from Gold Medal Models with the first release kit also is not without difficulty.

I have been looking at the base I have constructed. My initial idea was that the water would be a key feature, but as the build has progressed that doesn't seem to be the case. So I put the plaster of paris to the test and was fully prepared for it to break as I pressed it out of the timber frame. Much to my surprise it remained in one piece. I was then able to trim 3 inches out of the frame, as well as take three inches out of the ocean casting with a Dremel. After reconstructing the frame, I also gave the water another coat of artists acrylic paint as the base looked a little to bright for the dark gloomy scene I am trying to create.


As stated in a previous entry, I have re-learned that 1/700 is on the border of my skill level, but photo etch at 1/700 is beyond my skill level. As a result, some details will be left off of the model as I am not physically capable of shaping and placing the etch. Having said that, I have begun shaping railings and fixing them to the gun turrets



I have also constructed the Super-Structure and have begun adding as much photo etch as I am physically capable of doing. Below is a photo of the 1/700 Yamato Super-Structure and Funnel/Antenna assembly with some photo etch, alongside my big fat thumb. You can see why I struggle fitting the railing.



Details like the wind directors and 25mm guns will be missing from this model. However, once I graduate to the 1/350 and 1/200 kits, all of the details as well as some custom scratch building will appear. The Gold Medal Models 1/700 Photo Etch kit is Incredibly detailed. The photo below shows one of the offending 25 mm guns on my thumbnail.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Back to Base-ics

I remember now after ten years why I usually dont build in 1/700 - Photo etch! After finishing the Blu-Tack blast bags, I have begun fitting the photo etch railings to the gun turrets.

To give my eyes and nerves a rest, I returned to take another look at the base. After three days it has cured completely. After placing and gluing the waterline hull piece into place, I created some mild bow-waves and wash with putty, and proceeded to apply the artists acrylic paints in the manner called out by Omani


After drying, I applied white tips and wash in the appropriate places then sealed it all with gloss-coat. Once dried, I was able to assemble the basic structure for a test fitting. So far, so good!


I have also realised that there arent enough guns in the kit to build the model to "Ten-Ichigo" spec, and the configuration this release is presented in does not appear in Skulski's Anatomy, so I have made the decision to complete the model as Yamato was when constructed.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Blu-Tack blast bags?

The revised 1/700 Tamiya Yamato has many corrections on the original release (Which I am building). One is that they have added blast bags to the 18" guns. But for those of us with old stock, or building some other model without blast bags, there is a solution. It requires some Blu-Tack, skill, and believe me, much better results can be achieved than what I will show here (Instead of skill, I got Fat Fingers:-)
Here' the two pieces that combined will form the gun.


Assembled, you can see the gapping holes around the barrels


Roll some Blu-Tack between your fingers and flatten it out into a tube-shape so its about 1 1/2 inches long, and wrap it around the base of the barrels.



Then pull the barrels through the turret. The Blu-Tack will hold the barrels in place, and a small amount will protrude through the turret. This can then be shaped with a toothpick to make a convincing enough looking blast bag. Blu-Tack can also be painted if required.


Blu-Tack is very forgiving, if you botch it, just pull it out and start over.


And here is the finished blast bag painted.



Friday, February 29, 2008

1/700 Construction Begins

After more research, I have learned that my 1/200 Nichimo Yamato kit is quiet a rarety these days. As a result, I have tried to resist the urge to jump right into building this kit. I figure that as soon as I have tamiya's 1/700 and 1/350 unbuilt, that I would start small and work my way up to the big kit, and learn more about her along the way. Hopefully, resulting in a better model in the end.
I have however ordered the P.E. (Photo Etch railing kits) for all three models from a great supplier I have just discovered here in Melbourne. Kevin Dunn owns Fleetline Models, an Australian distributor for Loren Perry's awesome Gold Medal Models product. Kevin hooked me up with the P.E. Rails for the 1/700 kit so I could get straight to work.



So now I have everything I need to get started.


I began work on the 1/700 by casting a base. As this is a waterline kit, I thought I would try my hand at the Omani method. I found a suitable photo frame to utilise as the base.


Then lined it with crumpled aluminium foil to simulate the water pattern in the plaster.


Mixed up some plaster of paris and poured it in.


And once dry, removed the foil and test fitted the cast into the base. SO far so good. There are a few bubbles in the casting, that will be easily repaired with some putty.


It will take a few days for the plaster to completely dry, so I have begun construction on the hull. Everybody has a different method. Some people like to cut the parts off the sprue and test fit them into place. I prefer to spray paint them on the sprue, then cut them out as I need them, so I am only touching up the paint during construction. In this view you can see my very elaborate spray booth with the sprues ready for painting.


After the grey went on, I have masked up as much as possible in preparation for the deck base colour.


I put a nice coat of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow down as a base. I always found Deck Tan to be to white for my eyes. Dark Yellow weathers nicely, and has a warm teak feel to it.


So now we wait for the paint/plaster to dry.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Decisions Decisions......

I have spent the day sifting through the hundred's of photo's Kokufan has so generously shared with the world (Thanks Kokufan - who ever you are), and the process of how to build the model has begun. Do I weather the ship, do I build it in its boxed configuration or make the additional mods to bring the kit to "Ten Ichigo" spec? Do I cut away half the hull and do a waterline? Um....I dont think so:-). So what colors do I use? Japanese ships always look a little darker to me than the U.S. ships, but the 1/10 models colors are quiet bright?

Do these questions sound familiar......

Here goes the "Excrutiating over details" I was talking about. The "Checker-Plate" pattern on the forecastle looks O.O.S to me (Out Of Scale).

The 1/10 Forecastle


1/200 Nichimo Forecastle

What do you think?

Sunday, February 24, 2008

First Impressions - opening the box

First impression - WOW, this thing is HUGE!


The hull piece measure's 51.5 inches long!


In this view you can see the 1/200 kit alongside Tamiya's 1/350, and 1/700 offerings.


There's housands of pieces in this kit. Some have escaped the casting rails and are floating around in the box. I'm glad it was all sealed. However, I am sure I will be missing at least one critical component. The kit appears to have been designed with Remote Control in mind. It has a battey box cast into the hull that accomodates 8x D-Cell batteries.



Also in the box is a gear set for driving the props, which I will not require as I am building this model "Static", so if you want them, leave a comment on how I can contact you and I will get them in the post.


There is a check list sheet which shows all of the panels and parts.


And the instruction manual is entirely in Japanese.


Here's a slideshow of the sprues (casting rails/panels)